Here's the problem--
The handle of our kitchen faucet came off. It is the kind where one control handles the hot-cold mix AND the on-off-or-flow-rate.
I would like to position it in the classic position, where straight is an equal mix of hot and cold, so that moving it toward either side would increase the hot or the cold, from neutral.
But, how do I know where that even, neutral mix is?
(It is kind of like trying to put your steering wheel on so that it is straight when the wheels are pointed straight forward--but, I can't look at the wheels with respect to the water mix.)
In addition, I have the problem of getting the handle firmly on. It came loose before, and it seems only to have a set screw, other than whatever degree the cavity in the handle fits over the control.
In the US some people call this a Delta faucet, because it was an early brand name, sort of like when Brits refer to floor vacuum cleaning as hoovering.
Has anyone here put on one of these?
I realize I can search engine this for a video. But, I was thinking of it as a practical logic problem, perhaps worth some conversation. How would you approach it?
Buy a new one!
Isn't that a job for the landlord?
for the information, Jack.
The handle fits onto a spindle that seems to rotate like a clock with the handle being a hand of the clock, and the rotation controls the hot/cold mix. The greater-or-lesser-flow seems to be controlled by an up-and-down movement in the nature of a ball joint.
I might look at some videos to get some ideas.
This embedded image is nothing more than an example of a faucet, I. e., if the expression "your mileage may vary" ever has an application, it is in
regard to the internal parts of a faucet--more or less similar is NOT the very same thing as exactly the same, but it may be sufficient for you to get
These exploded view pixs are really great for reassembling the faucet in the correct order AKA having no parts left over.
The only viable way to get such a exploded view for your particular faucet is to know BOTH the manufacturer AND the model NUMBER, i. e., there are a great many similar looking faucets on the manufacturers website; AND to add to the problems, the manufacturer may NOT have legacy install instructions for a faucet it discontinued making (but maybe a web search would turn the owner "manual" up).
At the very bottom of the pix, it appears that there is what is typically called a rubber "O" ring ["O" as in the letter O]. It absolutely has to be coated with grease, and I don't mean axle grease either--it's in the plumbing section of a home improvement center, and even a novice plumbing dept sales person would know where since it's such a common need for reinstalling a faucet. Did I mention that "O" rings come in different diameters????
Your reluctance to have your landlord replace the faucet may have to be put aside if all you're doing is guessing what the faucet model is, and in turn what the parts are that are needed. If you do that, save the box the new faucet comes in/and the instruction sheets [save as in store themsomewhere where you won't forget where they are for use in the future].
Did I happen to mention, that you shouldn't expect your local home improvement center to stock the replacement parts for your faucet (maybe yes/maybe no). You may be forced to order them from the manufacturer, and the time frame for delivery may NOT impress you re the speed.
At one point, I ordered a 2nd identical faucet in order to cannibalize the parts as needed (AND I saved the old faucet when it was completely replaced just to have access to its parts); the joys of having a full basement.
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My Delta-style faucet handle is not anything close to as complicated as John's picture. It is very much like a common faucet, with respect to the
fact that a spindle sticks up out of the faucet workings, and the handle goes externally onto the spindle. There is nothing about the handle
connection at all involved with water flow. (Sort of like the knob one puts on a stove. If you have the right size and fit of knob, it would work
just as well to have an old TV channel selector knob. Indeed, I know of a person in need of a stove knob who used a TV channel knob for that purpose
until a stock part could be obtained.)
Again, my main logic question--how to line it up in the neutral position between hot and cold?
You are renting. That is your MAIN consideration. Your secondary one is NOT YOUR PROBLEM.The only action that you need take is TELL YOUR LANDLORD!
Ok. The left and right movement is very limited. Its not like a regular tap that goes round and round. And, as you say, off and on is up and down. Presumably, when it came off, it was in the centre area. So just put it back and see. Even trial and error wouldn't take a life time to get it right. If you put it back and it goes more in one direction than the other, you've got it wrong. It should move equally in both directions. Fully cold and fully hot. It really isn't rocket science.
Also re. the replacement , any I've ever seen were already assembled , only one screw and washer to fix tap to the sink plus the water connections ... compression fittings as already described .
And they use,micro bore fittings and they're really fiddly. And you mustn't over tighten.
Make a video of it and post it here to instruct others in what to do/not to do.
I think youtube would be the way to go. I've never tried doing it on here tbh.
I get a plumber in, cheaper in the long run...
No its not.
'Tis, if you get it wrong.
Our shower handle keeps coming off and it's east to put back. I really ought to tighten the screw.
I pay a monthly fee to get all heating and pipework attended to if need be. If I outlive my father I will move away from this village and buy a new house with fewer pipes needing replaced.
Drink beer. It's safer.
Plumbing has had many iterations over the years. Copper, cold galv, PVc and HDPE is the latest. I prefer PVC. Copper is best, but the cost of it makes it prohibitive. Cold gal is just too hard to work with. PVC requires care in making joints but is easy to work with. burying PVC, as with HDPE required a clean sand fill around it. any stones against it will eventually cause a leak. HDPE is the easiest to work with but the caveat is the all joints are made using compression fittings which are prone to failure.
But have you fixed the tap, though?