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In memory of Karl Davis, founder of this board, who made his final journey 12th June 2007

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Topic Review

[*] posted on 28-11-2017 at 09:20
Torx bits aren't that expensive, I have several sets rolling around here, somewhere. Once you removed the heatsink, you probably found that the connectors on the drive were no different to those on any other drive. Anyway, problem solved, so this discussion is now academic.

[*] posted on 28-11-2017 at 08:59
Well done Jack:clap)
You have great neighbourskewl_glasses

[*] posted on 27-11-2017 at 19:45
Right Tool For The Right Job Post

My auto mechanic neighbor showed up with a set of torx bits that fit into an interchangeable bit screw type holder. With some effort, he loosen up all the bolts. From there it was all downhill. He unscrewed the HD bolts from all the heat sinks and I was able to swap one of my newly acquired heat sinks for the damaged one in this PC. Hip Hip Hooray. The data connector now has a 'normal' fit (unlike its owner).



[*] posted on 27-11-2017 at 15:29
Originally posted by Quaver
Instead of rubber bands, would one of those aluminium tapes work?

You know one idea leads to another; IF I used the aluminum tape, I could cut a small sideways slice in the tape around the area where the cable runs to the connection, but the bulk of the tape would be holding the connector to its mate.

Another idea is using cable ties (like the kind that's used to bundle electrical wires together) and run them around the horizontal length of the HD (instead of using the rubber bands); they may be narrow enough to fit in between the wires leading to the connector [if you pull on the end/tip of thecable tie with needle nose pliers (which I've done for other DIY applications), you can get a pretty tight snug fit].


[*] posted on 27-11-2017 at 13:34
Instead of rubber bands, would one of those aluminium tapes work?

[*] posted on 27-11-2017 at 12:09
Originally posted by LSemmens
What is the exact model of the HDD. I'm not all that sure that they need that sort of heat sink for normal use.

I agree with you BUT the problem is just how can I unscrew the torx bolts/screws holding the HD to the 'ice pack', and then run the HD 'normally'.

There are in carpentry, these gadgets called "screw extractors" that can remove a deformed screw head, but that process starts off with drilling a tiny hole in the deformed screw head in which you insert the screw extractor (which itself is inserted into the chuck of a electric drill [just like adrill bit]; BUT it's one thing to do that with a piece of inert wood, but quite another matter in an electronic device re vibration issues. AND these screw extractors do NOT always work at all in wood as per my own personal experience in using them, i. e., there's no guarantee that they would work anywhere. That would leave Plan C as drilling out the entire torx screw with a carbon steel drill bit, BUT even if successful (and no guarantee that it would be), that method basically destroys the threads that the torx screws is using--again from my personal experience with this type of a problem.

[*] posted on 27-11-2017 at 09:23
What is the exact model of the HDD. I'm not all that sure that they need that sort of heat sink for normal use.

[*] posted on 27-11-2017 at 03:50
Quite some time ago (years), while reinstalling the power cable connector on a HD, I broke off a good size piece (a portion of the connector's housing) of the plastic connector that the power cable slides onto to make the connection to the HD's "ice pack" [yes the exact same "ice pack"design that I posted as a topic last week]; the ice pack is a heat sink + acts as a bay converter to take its 2.5" form factor HD to fit into a 3.5" bay in a desktop PC.

Due to the broken off piece of plastic, the fit of the cable connector has alway been quite precarious re 'staying put' when attached, i. e., it falls off (or loosens) at the drop of the proverbial hat (but beats reinstalling???? the OS on another setup).

After last's week topic on removing my used HDs from this type of design, I discovered that the torx screws/bolts are really solidly locked into place, and out of the 2 HDs with this design (8 screws all told), I could only manage to unscrew ONE. That reality means that I cannot simply remove the HD with the partially broken connector and swap it into an 'ice pack' with a unbroken connector [Amazon reviews on this item are mostly notfavorable re quality].

I'm looking for ideas to somehow repair the broken connector. There are really close tolerances for these connections; I've considered using a piece of electrical tape as a "filler/wedge", but thin as a piece of tape is, it could just crumple up as I fitted the connector, and not to mention getting the tape's glue backing all over the connection. And yes, I could take two really big rubber bands (around the length of the HD), and have them hold the connectors together but rubber bands dry out, etc., and, possibly would be a fire hazard as well as the HD heats up. That's about all that I've been able to come up with re rigging something up that would clamp the two connectors together (and I don't think an actual clamp would be feasible).

The embedded pix is a visual aid via a Google image download of the problem area; I don't think that I could use PhotoShop to draw in the broken off area of the plastic housing (it's at least 1/3 of the area).